Why Varanasi matters
Varanasi, also called Kashi and Banaras, is one of the oldest living cities in the world and the holiest city in Hinduism. Its ghats run for miles along the west bank of the Ganges, and at dawn and dusk they fill with bathers, priests and pilgrims.
Families come for darshan at Kashi Vishwanath, one of the twelve jyotirlingas, for rituals for relatives who have died, including the immersion of ashes, or simply to see the river and the evening aarti. Many combine it with Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first sermon, just outside the city.
How to get there from the UK
Varanasi has domestic flights from many Indian cities, so the usual plan is one long-haul flight and one short domestic one.
| Route | How it works | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Via Delhi | Non-stop from Heathrow, then a domestic flight | Several flights a day from Delhi |
| Via Mumbai | Non-stop from Heathrow, then a domestic flight | Useful if you have family in Mumbai or Gujarat |
| Via the Gulf | One stop to Delhi or Mumbai, then on to Varanasi | Good from Manchester and Birmingham |
| From Kathmandu | Flights link Varanasi and Kathmandu | For a combined India and Nepal trip |
Our tip: Keep the domestic flight on the same booking as your international one, so a delay does not cost you the connection.
Planning a visit to Kashi?
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Arriving in Varanasi
Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport is at Babatpur, about 26 km north-west of the city. The drive to the ghats can take an hour or more in traffic, and the lanes of the old city near the river are too narrow for cars, so your hotel may meet you at the nearest road and walk you in.
Choosing a hotel near the ghats makes early morning visits much easier, especially for older parents. Tell us where you are staying and we will time the flights around a daylight arrival.
The ghats and the Ganga aarti
A boat ride at sunrise is the classic way to see the ghats, as the city wakes up and bathers enter the river. In the evening, the Ganga aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat draws large crowds, with priests offering fire and chanting to the river. Arrive early for a good view, or watch from a boat.
Manikarnika and Harishchandra are the cremation ghats. They are places of mourning, so be respectful, do not take photographs, and follow any guidance from local people.
Asthi visarjan and family rituals
Many families from the UK travel to Varanasi or Haridwar to immerse the ashes of a loved one in the Ganges and to carry out rituals for the departed. Local priests arrange the ceremony, and families often book a boat for the immersion.
Carrying ashes on a flight is possible but needs some preparation. Our guide to taking ashes to India explains the paperwork and what to expect at the airport, and we can help you plan the journey calmly.
Sarnath and beyond
Sarnath, a short drive from the city, is where the Buddha gave his first teaching. Its stupas, ruins and museum make a peaceful half day. Buddhist pilgrims often travel on to Bodh Gaya in Bihar and to Lumbini in Nepal.
For Bodh Gaya, see our flights to Patna and Bihar page, and for Nepal, our Kathmandu guide.
When to go
October to March is the most comfortable time, with cool mornings and clear days. Dev Deepawali, on the full moon after Diwali, lights up the ghats with thousands of lamps and is one of the most beautiful nights of the year, but also one of the busiest.
April to June is very hot, and during the monsoon, from July to September, the river rises and some ghats flood. Winter mornings can be foggy, which sometimes delays flights.
Travelling with elderly parents
The old city has many steps and narrow lanes. Plan short outings, use a boat to move between ghats, and book wheelchair assistance on the flights. A hotel with a lift close to the river makes a big difference.
See our page on assisted travel for elderly passengers for the help we arrange at the airports.
Where to stay and eat
Hotels and guest houses line the ghats, and staying close to the river means you can be on the water at dawn without a long drive through traffic. Larger hotels with more space and lifts tend to be further from the river, in the newer parts of the city.
Varanasi is famous for its food, from kachori and jalebi at breakfast to the many vegetarian thalis, sweets and the city’s paan. Drink bottled or filtered water, and choose busy stalls where food is cooked fresh.
Kashi Vishwanath temple
The Kashi Vishwanath temple, dedicated to Shiva, is the spiritual centre of the city. The Kashi Vishwanath corridor now links the temple directly to the river, making it easier to reach from the ghats. Security is tight and phones and bags are usually not allowed inside, so use the lockers nearby.
Queues are longest early in the morning, on Mondays, during Shivratri and in the month of Shravan. Ask your hotel for the best time to go on your dates.
Questions people ask
Can I take photos at the cremation ghats?
No. Manikarnika and Harishchandra are places of mourning, so please do not take photographs there and follow guidance from local people.
How many days do I need in Varanasi?
Two or three days is enough for the ghats, the aarti, Kashi Vishwanath and Sarnath. Allow a day or two more for family rituals.
Are there direct flights from the UK to Varanasi?
No. Fly to Delhi or Mumbai and take a short domestic flight, ideally on the same booking.
How far is Varanasi airport from the ghats?
The airport is at Babatpur, about 26 km from the city, usually an hour or more by road.
When is the best time to visit Varanasi?
October to March. April to June is very hot and the monsoon runs from July to September.
Can we immerse ashes in the Ganges at Varanasi?
Yes. Many families do, with a local priest arranging the ceremony. See our guide to taking ashes to India.
How far is Sarnath from Varanasi?
A short drive from the city, so it is an easy half-day visit.
Can I combine Varanasi with Nepal?
Yes. Flights link Varanasi and Kathmandu, which suits Buddhist pilgrims visiting Lumbini.
Is Varanasi suitable for elderly parents?
Yes, with planning. Choose a hotel near the river, use boats between ghats, and book wheelchair help on the flights.
