Why go
The hill stations of the eastern Himalaya offer something very different from the plains: cool air, tea gardens on steep slopes, Buddhist monasteries, prayer flags and, on clear mornings, the snow peaks of Kanchenjunga filling the horizon.
Darjeeling, in West Bengal, is the classic hill station. Kalimpong is quieter, and Sikkim, a small state to the north, has Gangtok, high lakes and some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in India.
Getting there from the UK
Bagdogra, near Siliguri, is the gateway airport.
| Stage | How | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| UK to Delhi or Kolkata | Non-stop to Delhi, or one stop to Kolkata | Many routes from the regions |
| Domestic flight to Bagdogra | From Delhi, Kolkata and other cities | Short from Kolkata |
| Bagdogra to Darjeeling | Road, about three hours | Or the toy train for part of the way |
| Bagdogra to Gangtok | Road, around four to five hours | Pakyong airport is closer but has few flights |
Our tip: Mountain roads are slow and weather can close them. Leave a spare day before your flight home.
Planning a trip to the hills?
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The Darjeeling toy train
The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, opened in 1881, is part of the Mountain Railways of India UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its little steam and diesel trains climb from the plains in loops and zigzags, through bazaars and tea gardens. Most visitors ride a short joy ride from Darjeeling to Ghum and back, which includes the famous Batasia Loop.
Seats on the joy rides are limited and book up in the busy seasons. Our guide to train travel in India explains how to book Indian Railways tickets from the UK.
Darjeeling
Get up early for sunrise over Kanchenjunga from Tiger Hill, visit a tea estate for a tasting, and walk the Mall and Chowrasta. The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and the zoo, known for red pandas and snow leopards, are popular with families.
Sikkim and Gangtok
Gangtok is Sikkim’s capital, a lively hill town with monasteries such as Rumtek nearby. From Gangtok, day trips reach the high-altitude Tsomgo lake, and longer journeys go north to the valleys of Lachung and Yumthang, or west to Pelling with its views of Kanchenjunga.
Some areas, especially near the border, need extra permits and are only open to visitors on organised trips, so plan these with a local operator.
Permits for Sikkim
Foreign nationals need a permit to enter Sikkim, and many areas are restricted to foreigners. The rules and where permits are issued can change, so check the official Sikkim tourism guidance or ask the Indian mission in London before you travel. Allow time for this in your plans, and carry several passport photos and copies of your passport and visa.
You also need an Indian visa or OCI card and the free e-Arrival card for India itself.
When to go
The clearest mountain views are usually in October and November, after the monsoon, and again in spring, from about March to May, when the rhododendrons flower. Winters are cold but often clear. The monsoon, from June to September, brings heavy rain, cloud and landslides on the roads.
Combining with Kolkata
Many visitors combine the hills with Kolkata, a short flight away. Bengali families often add a few days in Darjeeling after Durga Puja, when the skies clear. See our guides to flights to Kolkata and Durga Puja, and our East India tour, which includes Darjeeling and Gangtok.
Altitude and health
Darjeeling and Gangtok are at moderate altitude, but some excursions in Sikkim go much higher. Climb gradually, drink plenty of water and take it easy on the first day at height. If you have heart or breathing problems, ask your doctor before you go, and check your travel insurance covers the altitudes you plan to reach.
Getting around
Shared jeeps and private cars are the main way to travel between towns. A car and driver for the whole trip is the most comfortable option, especially with older relatives, as the roads are narrow and winding. Distances are short on the map but take many hours.
What to pack
Even in spring and autumn, mornings and evenings are cold, so bring warm layers, a fleece and a waterproof jacket. Good walking shoes help on the steep streets and steps. In winter, pack proper cold-weather clothing, especially for Tiger Hill at dawn and high excursions in Sikkim.
Darjeeling tea
Darjeeling’s first flush teas, picked in spring, are among the most prized in the world. Many estates welcome visitors for a walk through the gardens, a look at the factory and a tasting. Spring and autumn are the busiest times in the tea gardens and the best for seeing the pickers at work.
If you want to bring tea back to the UK, buy it sealed from a reputable shop or estate and keep it in your hand luggage.
Kalimpong and the quieter hills
Kalimpong, a few hours from Darjeeling, is calmer and greener, with nurseries famous for orchids and cacti, old churches and monasteries. Mirik, with its lake, and the villages of the Sikkim and Darjeeling borderlands make good stops for travellers who want to avoid the crowds of the main hill towns.
Questions people ask
Do I need a visa to visit Darjeeling?
Yes, on a British passport. You need an Indian visa or OCI card, plus the free e-Arrival card before landing in India.
Can I bring Darjeeling tea back to the UK?
Yes, packaged tea for personal use is fine. Buy it sealed and keep it in your hand luggage.
Which airport is nearest to Darjeeling?
Bagdogra, near Siliguri, with domestic flights from Delhi, Kolkata and other cities. Darjeeling is about three hours by road.
Do I need a permit for Sikkim?
Yes, foreign nationals need a permit to enter Sikkim, and extra permits for some areas. Check the official guidance before you travel.
Is the Darjeeling toy train a UNESCO site?
Yes. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway is part of the Mountain Railways of India World Heritage Site.
When is the best time for mountain views?
October and November, and spring from about March to May. The monsoon brings cloud and rain.
How long should I spend in Darjeeling and Sikkim?
About a week covers Darjeeling and Gangtok comfortably. Add more for north or west Sikkim.
Can I combine the hills with Kolkata?
Yes. Kolkata to Bagdogra is a short flight, and many families add the hills after Durga Puja.
Is Sikkim suitable for elderly parents?
Gangtok and Darjeeling are fine with care. Avoid the very high excursions and take a car and driver.
